Welcome to our service department. Our Services include maintance,repair and welding. We offer some of the best prices around. Suzuki North's Service department has had the same Technician's since 1977. They are very quick and good at what they do weather it be a scooter, motorcycle any small or large engine. We do ask that you call ahead for an appointment, that way we may give you prompt service. Sadly we do not offer storage service and would like to be able to get you in and out as fast as we can.


Suzuki North's Service department has had the same Technician's since 1977. They are very quick and good at what they do weather it be a scooter, motorcycle any small or large engine. We do ask that you call ahead for an appointment, that way we may give you prompt service. Sadly we do not offer storage service and would like to be able to get you in and out as fast as we can.
Our Services include maintance,repair and welding

Winter Storage
Gather up the tools necessary for winterizing your bike. You will need, cleaning cloths, spark plug wrench, a trickle battery charger, four or five quarts of high quality oil, new oil filter, oil can or device to get oil in the cylinders, chain lube (if you have a chain drive), fuel stabilizer, spray can of WD40, a breathable motorcycle cover, kitchen plastic wrap, rubber bands, vinyl or plastic gloves, items to clean and wax your bike. Lastly a nice location for the bike to spend the winter, a heated secure garage would be ideal. Avoid wind, dripping water, vermin, mildew, and chemical fumes.

Give your bike a thorough cleaning. A gentle wash detergent and water will suffice. By removing road grime and insects you will protect the finish of the bike. Avoid spraying water directly into the opening of the muffler. If baffles get wet and are not dried prior storage, internal rust could result. Likewise avoid moisture in the air cleaner housing. If the housing becomes saturated, it could act as a choke, making cycle difficult to start. Dry completely with a good chamois. Clean and polish all aluminum and stainless surfaces with the appropriate metal polish. Finally finish up with a coat of good wax polish on all painted and chrome surfaces. Clean the chain (if you have one). Spray off all the built up residues with WD40. Lube the chain.

Add a fuel stabilizer to the gas tank. Fill your tank with gas as full as it can go. This is very important. As fuel ages, more volatile components tend to change, leaving sludge and gummy substances that can affect the carburetor. Run the bike so the gas and fuel stabilizer get to the carburetor and fuel injectors.then turn off the fuel and run it dry

If you have a carburetor, drain your float bowls. Shut off the gas petcock and drain the gas from the carburetor bowls. Consult your manual for location of drain screws. Of course if you have a fuel-injected bike, there isn’t anything to drain.

Once the engine is warm, you can change the oil and filter. Oil chemistry changes over periods of extended storage. Old oil can develop acidic qualities, which can corrode engine parts

Using an oil-squirting device, put oil over the stationary tubes on the front forks. Get on the bike, hold the front brake and bounce the bike up and down to work the front suspension. This will keep the rubber seals from drying out and protect the exposed fork tubes.

Remove spark plug wires, and carefully with a spark plug wrench remove the plugs. With your oil-squirting device, get some motor oil in the cylinders. Approximately one teaspoon of oil will work well. Tuck the plug wires away somewhere safe so they do not arc, then spin the motor with the starter for a few revolutions to get the oil spread around. Remember to keep your face away from the spark plug holes. Oil will squirt out! Clean and gap the plugs and put them back in. Replace plug wires.

You may want to remove the battery. Some batteries may require charging every four weeks with a “Battery Tender” type of charger. Built up sulfates on the plates can ruin a battery during cold storage and inactivity. A thin coat of Vaseline to the terminals on the battery can prevent corrosion. This small step will mean an easier spring start up and no extra cost of battery replacement.

If your bike has a liquid cooling system, check it’s level of anti-freeze with a hygrometer. Drain, flush and replace antifreeze if necessary. We suggest this replacement be done every two years. Do not leave the antifreeze level low or empty, this could lead to rust or corrosion of the cooling system. Check all other fluid levels at this time.

Lube your cables. Lube suspension and pivot points. Lube the drive shaft (if you have one). Check the air cleaner and the fuel filter. Look at brake pads. Give your bike a good once over.

Clean and treat all leather with a high quality dressing.

If your storage location is bare concrete, we suggest using a piece of plywood, MDF, or old thick carpet. This will insulate the bike from becoming damp. We also suggest storing your bike with all the weight removed from the wheels. A bike stand or some blocking works if you have a wheeled lift. A center stand and some blocking will work too. Do not store your bike near any ozone emitting devices, such as motors, freezers, furnaces or electric heaters. The gasses created by the above will deteriorate rubber parts.

With a clean cloth, wipe good quality light machine oil over all the metal surfaces, except the disc brakes. Spray a little WD40 in the tail pipe(s). Cover your tail pipe opening and the air intake with plastic wrap and a rubber band. You can also cover drain hoses as well. This will prevent any opportunistic pests from making a cozy winter home in your bike.

Do not run the engine for short periods of time over the storage period, this can lead to condensation due to engine and combustion byproducts in the oil.

Coolant/antifreeze is available from your dealer and has been developed to provide the correct protection for your motorcycle engine. Mixed 50/50 with distilled water will ensure a clean system for the next two years or 24,000 kms (15,000 miles).

Cover it. 
Now you can cover the bike with the cycle cover and look forward to the first warm day of spring.

Back On The Road Before you head out onto the highway, there are a couple of things to do. First, remove the cover and put it where you can find it again. Talking of finding things, locate the (charged) battery and reinstall it connecting the positive (+) cable (red) before the (-) negative and covering the terminals with the plastic covers. Recheck all fluid levels and turn on the fuel. Check for anything wrong on the motorcycle (cracked tires, broken parts/plastic, leaking oil). Set the tire pressures back to riding specs and you are ready to fire up.

As you  put on your riding gear, remember that your riding skills will be a little rusty and the road surfaces will have changed a bit since the last ride, so go carefully. Sand/salt deposits on the edge of the road and especially at corners may be hazardous.

If you take care of your ride it will take care of you!








For your enjoyment we have added a fix it game below. Lets see how fast you can fix this motorcycle. - 9500+ Free Games - 9500+ Free Games
Stay away from Jiffy Lube and all other chain lube shops. Take your MOTORCYCLE to your dealer or a trusted mechanic like us Suzuki North. At these lube shops you may be trusting your expensive engine to an untrained lube jocky. I would not trust them to touch my engine. To answer your question, in the Indianapolis area it runs around $30 - $35 for the conventional oil signature service, the price goes into the mid $40 area for a synthetic blend, oil or a high mileage oil signature service and then there is the full synthetic oil signature service that is from around $50 - $65.

Beginner's Guide to Motorcycling
The majority of us riders want to make our bike(s) last, and run like new forever, but it takes maintenance to do just that. Bike engines work harder than car engines and thus require more of our attention. Here are some tips I found to be beneficial I'd like to pass along.

Motorcycle Maintenance,
more than just kicking the tires
ou owe it to yourself and your bike to make it as safe and reliable to ride as you can. To some, that means tearing apart an engine, carburetor and more; to others that is making sure you do the basics. Since everyone is different and may not be as comfortable working on their bikes as others, this section will cover the MINIMUM on what you should do for you and your bike, they also happen to be the easiest things to do as well.

Why do you run the bike and not let it sit?
Because you are not done just yet, you have to make sure once the oil is distributed evenly around the engine that you don't have to add more oil to "top it up". Check the oil plug dipstick or the oil level window and see where the oil is at, you need to wait a couple of minutes since the oil needs to slowly drain back down again. If the level is not as high as it was before, add a little bit more and again, run the engine. Check again, how it is now? You may need to do this process once or twice, but usually no more. Now, you are 100% assured you have the correct amount of oil in the engine and your bike will love you for it.

How often should you change your oil?
Some change their oil too often, others forget to change it enough. Changing it too often is wasteful and since oil is not a renewable resource, we have to be careful how we use it and not to waste it. Changing it not at all is great for the environment, but disastrous on your bike's life. So we need to change it as often as your bike needs it plus a little sooner "just to make sure". Check your owners manual and see what the manufacturer recommends, let's say it is every 3,000km, then I would recommend changing it every 2,000km (or every 6 months) to make my bike's engine last longer. If you don't know when to change your oil, every 2,000km (or every 6 months) is more than enough to be on the safe side. I suggest 6 months as well because oil actually does get oil and it looses it's lubricating properties just sitting around at the bottom of your engine, so just because you don't ride a lot doesn't mean you get off on doing maintenance!